The Drive Shaft shop is proud to now offer actual high speed balancing service. Over the years we have been faced with the question that almost every balancing machine available raises. "How fast is a shaft balanced at?" Most balancing machines are very efficient in doing the job that they are designed for, as long as they are calibrated and working properly. Instead of actual shaft speed, they rely on sensors that detect the "weight centerline" of the part being spun. This means that when the shaft is spinning, the machine is seeing how far out of center the weight is and then goes on to indicate what amount of weight is needed to bring it within a certain tolerance. But not every drive shaft application is the same, and depending on what the drive shaft is going to be used for, some will need to have a more detailed approach in balancing.
That being said, when the shaft is being spun at the actual speed that it will be running at, it presents more information to assimilate and therefore gives the ability to more accurately correct it. Another major advantage is that a high speed balancer will also be able to analyze parameters that the slow speed machine cannot, such as u-joint tolerance, tube flex, harmonic resonance, slip yoke instability and more. With this new machine we can spin a 17lb shaft to actual speeds of over 9000 RPM, whereas most drive shaft balancers only spin from 400-3000 RPM (most average about 1000 RPM). This machine was custom made for us and high speed balancing is offered as a separate service, only from The Drive Shaft Shop.
DRAG RACING DRIVESHAFTS AND STREET SHAFTS
When a company has been around for 30+ years things are into a certain perspective. Either you get old with the rest of the pack or you grow and learn on a constant basis. Here at The Driveshaft Shop we grow and learn everyday. Being involved in the racing industry since the early 70’s, we remember the days on Long Island when Motion Performance was a local shop that just happened to be in Baldwin. Drag racers stopped by on a regular basis (and there still here) and National Speedway was the place to go, those were simpler times. We understand cars and the unique challenges involved in making a racing shaft today. Back in the 70’s it was simple; just use a truck tube and some good joints and you have a race shaft. Technology has changed and so has The Driveshaft Shop. With today’s higher HP/Torque motors, higher RPM drive trains and sophisticated suspensions you need to know what you’re doing to make a shaft today. We manufacture driveshafts in standard carbon steel, Chromoly,Carbon fiber or 6061-T6 aluminum. All of our carbon steel and Chromoly shafts are welded to our demanding specs using our unique slow feed lathe mounted welders using a special powdered core wire that has a higher tensile strength than conventional welding. Every shaft is balanced on our state of the art computerized two-plane balancers and weights are attached with our special rivet type mounts. All this is great. But before any shaft is made we carefully make sure the shaft is designed to spec before we manufacture it, we could just make a simple flyer to ask what’s needed and we do have that for lower powered cars. We feel at a higer level of competition cars we need to talk to you and give you a personal assessment of the car to assure its proper part.
We will need to know the following:
- HP/Torque of the motor
- Rear ratio
- Rear tire size and height
- Top MPH the car will see
- Weight of the car with driver
With this info we will be able to check for overall strength, critical speed and durability needed. All shafts are hand made in our Carolina facility and carefully packed for shipping within days. If you’re looking for a racing shaft give is a call and let us make you a custom shaft for your application.
To check for critical speed, calculate this equation:
Top speed x 336 (a constant) x rear ratio (like 4.10), then divide it by the tire height (28” tall tire).
Here is an example:
Top speed is 160mph x 336 = 53760 x rear ratio of 4.10 = 220416, then divide this number by the tire height, 28”. This car would have top RPM of 7872. Now the shaft being designed will need to be able to so this RPM.
STREET ROD DRIVESHAFTS
Here at The Driveshaft Shop we are street rod people. Everyone in the building is into some sort of car they love and street rods are not foreign to us. We manufacture shafts from simple carbon steel to Chromoly and finish up the line up with 6061-T6 aluminum. These shafts can be made in any style or arrangement. Where we differ from most companies is that we have an understanding of the entire car. Let’s start with a simple problem. John Knuclebuster has installed a 350/750R in his 47 Chevy and has a vibration when stepping on the gas. He has brought the shaft back to the shop he purchased it from several times only to be told the shaft is balanced and guess what, it more than likely is. A friend of Mr. Knuclebuster checks the pinion angle and tells him it’s correct? What was missed was the front and rear angle and has no more than four degrees of operation. Simple, right? Not really. Due to the 700R sitting so high in the tunnel he can’t get it higher to correct the angle. Solution is a C.V. on the front of the shaft (can be made for just about any car). I know the story is kind of corny but we have been around for years and hear stories like this over and over. Not only can we make the best shaft for the car, but if there is a problem we will stay with it until the end. Professional drive train people doing what they love, making parts.
So, if you’re doing a simple 350/350 in your three window or have decided to put a C5 drive train under your 37 (we can make C.V. axles too) please give us a call and see what the REAL Driveshaft Shop is all about.
DRIVESHAFT VIBRATION: 101 (not for CV axles)
Most people have trouble determining if the vibration in their vehicle is coming from the DRIVESHAFT or not. There are typically two types of vibration most vehicles would have. A fast cycle vibration or a slow cycle vibration, to help understand this lets say we put a bucket of water on the passenger’s floor. If the vibration in the vehicle produces small ripples on the top of the water this would be considered a fast cycle vibration. This type of vibration is usually a drive train vibration, things like the driveshaft, motor or torque converter. If the vibration puts waves on the top of the water or splashes, this type of vibration is a slow cycle vibration and usually is an axle or tire vibration. People have trouble determining where the vibration in their vehicle is coming from. Try the test below if your not sure.
A simple way to do this is out the vehicle in question up on jack stands (make sure the vehicle is completely secure), block the front tires and run the vehicle up to the speed you have the vibration. Make sure you use the brake to stop the drive train before you put the car in park if it’s an automatic. If the vibration is a fast cycle vibration you may want to have the DRIVESHAFT checked for balance. This may make no sense to you but you may try indexing the shaft 180 degrees (just pull the shaft off the rear yoke and put it on the opposite way). What this does is change the resonant frequency property of the driveline and in many cases it takes the vibration away. If you have a slow cycle vibration take the tires off the car (make sure you put lugs back on the axle to keep the brake in line) and run the vehicle again. If the vibration is gone you now have to find out if it’s the rim or the tire and good tire shop can help you with that. This is a simple test for any vehicle but please if you’re not completely sure of how to put the car on stands safely bring the car to a certified technician to perform the test. If you want further help with understanding this process or want help understanding vibration problems please call or e-mail us. We live for drive train and will help as much as we can.